When mum studied for her Bachelor of Arts and stayed in an all-girls dorm, she did not have much money to spare on her lunches. She and her friend always picked two things from their university dining hall as it only cost them 25 cents (paisa) in Indian currencies.
They always picked ‘Ghugni’ – a simple lentil stew made with dried yellow peas and simple spices. They were soothing for her stomach, and they kept her full until dinner time. With that, she always opted for two ‘aloo chop’ – mashed spiced potato dunked in a mildly spiced chickpea batter and deep-fried.
This post is about an ordinary Kolkata street food known as ‘Ghugni’ or dried yellow pea curry. It only takes 30 rupees to buy a plate of ghugni from street vendors. At Bengali homes, we prepare two types of ghugni–one with meat and one with coconut and vegetables. To be frank, we meat lover Bengalis love meat ghugni the most. If you’re interested, you can find the recipe here.
The last day of Durga Puja is Dasami, and a tearful farewell is offered to the mother. We always hope the Goddess will come back again the next year and immerse the idol in the Holy Ganges. It’s believed that Ma returns to her husband Lord Shiva’s home, so married Bengali females offer her sweets before she leaves. Married women also exchange Vermillion among each other to wish a long life for their husbands. Vijayadashami is from the Sanskrit words “Vijaya-dashami” which means the victory on the Dashami or the tenth day. The sharing of sweets and hugs are very common during and after this day. Young ones touch elders’ feet to get their blessings. Until today, many relatives come to our home with a bag of sweets and Ma serves them her homemade desserts. Ma prepares many sweets and savory snacks for that day. The making of coconut laddoo and coconut rice pudding is still mandatory in her home. She serves it to anyone who comes to our home to exchange greetings. She also prepares a big batch of her famous and signature yellow pea curry (veg ghugni) and deep fried rectangular snacks (Nimki) to balance the sweet overload.
At our home we serve dried yellow pea curry with ground roasted spices, onions, green chiles and lemon juice. Ground roasted spice (Bhaja Moshla) is the integral part of yellow pea curry. We lightly toast whole cumin seeds, coriander seeds, cinnamon sticks, cloves, cardamom and red chile. After that, we ground them together and sprinkle on top of our ghugni. Without dry roasted spices, your ghugni won’t be Kolkata’s ghugni.
I have seen many bloggers preparing ghugni with canned or dried chickpeas. I have not seen any Bengali from Kolkata doing that. And boiling dried yellow peas is much easier than you think. When I am in a rush, I boil in a pressure cooker but there are many times I boil in a soup pot. Ma adds a pinch of baking soda when she prepares it in a soup pot. But soaking dried yellow peas is mandatory no matter what cooking medium you use
Ghugni Recipe
Ground Roasted Spices (Bhaja Moshla)
- 1 teaspoon whole cumin seed
- 1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seed
- 1 (1 inch) cinnamon stick
- 3 green cardamom pods
- 3 whole cloves
Curry
- 250 gram dried yellow peas
- 3 cups water or more
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 teaspoon turmeric
- 3 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided
- 2 medium yukon gold potatoes, 1/2-inches cubed
- salt to taste
- 1 dried red chile (to taste)
- 1 piece (1 1/2 inch) ginger, cut into slices
- 3 cloves garlic
- 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced
- 1 teaspoon chile powder
- 2 medium roma tomatoes, finely chopped
Ground Roasted Spices (Bhaja Moshla)
- In a non-stick skillet over medium heat, heat cumin seed, coriander seed, cinnamon stick, cardamom pods and cloves. Toast it for 2 to 3 minutes, or until they release their aroma.
- Take it aside. Cool it down and use a spice or coffee grinder, grind them to powder. You can store this powder in an air-tight container for future use.
Curry
- In a large bowl, combine the peas with enough water to cover by several inches. Set aside to soak 8 hours to overnight.
- Drain the peas and transfer to a soup pot. Add the 3 cups water, turmeric, bay leaf, and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cover the pan. Simmer for 45 to 50 minutes or until the peas are tender. Add more water during cooking, if necessary. You can alternatively use a pressure cooker. Add peas, 3 cups water, turmeric, bay leaf, and salt. Close the lid and heat over medium heat until you hear a whistle. Close the flame and keep it rested for 10-12 mins. Make sure peas are tender but completely mushy.
- Meanwhile, in a non-stick skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Add potato pieces and salt. Cover and cook it for 7 to 8 minutes or until they are golden brown. Take it aside in another bowl.
- Wipe out the skillet, over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon vegetable oil. Add dried red chile and fry it for 2-3 mins or it is slightly brown take it aside. When it is cool enough to handle crush this red chile with hands or mortar pestle.
- In a food processor, combine the ginger, garlic. Work the mixture until it forms a paste. Transfer it to a bowl.
- Use the same skillet where you fried the chiles, it will infuse a nice chiles aroma. Set it over medium heat and heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add the sliced onion, and cook for 5 minutes, or until it starts to soften. Lower the heat to medium-low and add the ginger-garlic paste, tomato pieces. Cover and cook it for 4 to 5 minutes or until tomatoes are softened.
- Tip the spice mixture into the peas and bring to a boil. Add fried chile and potato pieces. Lower the heat and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt if you like. Add ground roasted spices (to taste) and give it a stir to mix it well.
- Ladle into bowls and garnish with finely chopped onion, green chiles, cilantro and lemon wedges. We also add a few pinch of ground roasted spices while serving.
Beautiful looking dal. I love the side angle somehow I feel the bowls are sliding in the overhead shot. He hee blogger rush to complete all world cuisines I donnoo for what :)) Lucky u so many new props.I am coming soon to loot :).
I agree Bina about the bowls sliding. I have tried a new lens this weekend before purchasing – looks like it did not work the way I have expected! 🙂
The pictures look stunning, Dolphia. My absolute favorite is #7 🙂 The last time I had Ghugni was at my Bengali friend’s place, she had served it with Luchi and Parval ….it was delicious!
Amazing recipe Dolphia!! You have made the simple curry look so stunning!!! This I must say is one awesome post 🙂
Thank you Nandita!
Thanks Bina! 🙂
Just loving this recipe. Having tasted this, i’m tempted to try this soon. Beautiful pics. need to buck up with my time get being more productive .
Hi Dolphia,
I am from Calcutta too and have been looking for an authentic Ghugni recipe. I came across your recipe and have made the same quite a few times. I love it! I tweaked it a little though. I soak the dried yellow peas overnight. Cook the onions, tomatoes, ginger garlic paste. I use a slow cooker – dump the cooked stuff, soaked peas, salt & turmeric powder, mix it and leave it through the day. When I come back in the evening, I add your grounded spices, mix and voila it’s done! And it’s yummy:)
I have to try the air fryer that you recommended. Thanks.